1.Layout and install joists at either 16-inch on-center (OC) when decking will be installed perpendicular to the joists, or 12-inch (OC) when deck boards will be installed diagonally or at an angle to the joists. Joists must be level.

2.Attach posts to decking frame. DO NOT NOTCH POSTS. The maximum distance from center of post to center of post is 72-inches. Square and level posts.

A. Block posts and attach to rim joists with two bolts (1/2-inch carriage bolts 8-inch minimum length with 1-1/4-inch flat washer and nut on back).

3.Install Decking using 2¼-inch, #7 stainless steel trim head screws, two screws per board per joist recommended. Screws should be a minimum of ½-inch from the board end to prevent potential splitting of the board.

A. Allow ¼-inch side-to-side spacing between deck boards. Allow ⅛-inch (or greater) end-to-end spacing between end of boards (butt joints). If installing in freezing weather, leave ¼-inch (butt joints).

B. Cut deck boards to fit around posts. Leave ⅛-inch gap between board and post.

C. Staggering the butt joints on long decks usually improves the overall appearance of the finished deck. Some people also prefer a distinctive pattern for the deck boards. To achieve an interesting design. Install a pattern board, which eliminate butt joints.

D. Once the boards are in place, adjust the blade depth of your saw to match the thickness of your deck boards. Use a blue chalk line to mark your cut and go (review tips below for overhang options). To avoid temporarily staining the decking boards, only use blue carpenter’s chalk. Rasp the edges to finish.

4.Slip post collar over post onto deck if installing.

5.Place second 2x4 flush with the top of the balusters and using two 2¼- inch #7 stainless steel trim head screws secure the baluster to the top rail. Repeat this step on the opposite end.

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